And the big question is...

Were the English polite to the Irish President - or is that drama from the last time history now? Aidan? Either way...Yahooooooooooooo

Be careful what you wish for...

I have arrived in Hanoi - and its raining! x

Bicycle Chains and Bikini Bottoms

I cannot profess to any great travel adventures since the boarder crossing but I am pleased that I came to Vietnam. The weather is great and the scenery and beaches are fabulous although a touch of sunburn has kept my seaside fun to a minimum. I haven’t seen any of the thieving and meanness that I was warned about by several people before I came. A few days after I got to Hoi An, I met up with Hannah, who I originally met in North Laos. We cycled to the beach a few times and on one occasion, the chain came off Hannah’s bike. Our repair efforts were unsuccessful and a local man came to our assistance and before you know it the rest of the house was involved. I scurried off to buy him a beer for his trouble and when I turned back, Hannah was on her way in the door where the lady of the house pretty much washed the oil off her hands for her and then we were invited to sit at their table with them. They didn’t speak a word of English but we shared a small drink, some sweets, awkward watermelon seeds and some photos before we set off home to our hotel. On another occasion, Hannah lost her bikini bottoms but I really shouldn’t say anymore – it was all very innocent on her part anyway. On arrival at Ho Chi Minh City, I booked onto an organized tour to the Cu Chi Tunnels and other historical sites, which ended up being a bit like a cattle market the way we were all herded around – I admit to getting irritated by it but it was still a great experience. I climbed into the little tunnels where the VC hid themselves and from where they made many attacks during the war, I walked around the War Remnants Museum to see some more of the evidence of the craziness of war and I spent some time at the Reunification Palace, where Communist victory was declared in 1975. Last night, I was lucky enough to see another side to Ho Chi Minh City when (thanks to Anele) I met up with a HIV nurse from Manchester called Elaine, who is now working here, and her husband, Mark. We went to some lovely bars and had great local food and a really good laugh and chat. The food here is much better and cheaper than I had anticipated but the city doesn’t disguise the rat and cockroach inhabitants too well and the squat toilets are partitioned off parts of the kitchens. That said, I think my immunity is as strong as its ever been. The markets are impressive and another parcel will be winging its way back to London tomorrow before I fly on to Hanoi the day after. I’m starting to miss rain but don’t tell anyone.

Chuc Mung Nam Moi - Happy Vietnamese New Year!!!!

I spent two days in the busy city of Danang, strolling around and having more of the great coffee in road side cafes with old men who couldn’t speak any English but persisted with conversation anyway. The general mood was lovely, with lots of decorations going up for Vietnamese New Year (Tet). Many people smiled at me; the children being more brave, frequently calling out hello to me. I was offered several free fruit, red melon seeds, a beer, a watch and two pens. Lots of people took an interest in helping with my attempts at Vietnamese greetings and requests. My fears about Vietnam have so far been completely unfounded – I really did think that people were going to be mean and it is not the case at all, although being careful anywhere is a good idea. I moved onto Hoi An, which is only 30 minute away, and met a young pair of friends called Becky and Miffy on the bus journey so had a lovely day on the beautiful beach nearby with them. Hannah, who I met in Northern Laos, arrived yesterday so we are now sharing a room (with access to a swimming pool!). The town of Hoi An is the tailoring centre of South East Asia so I have had a couple of tops made. I also did a cookery course which involved a trip on a river boat. Other that that, it is sit tight and wait to see how the festivities go on. All the shops close for up to 2 weeks, transportation dries up and in less touristy places, it is difficult to get food. On the eve of Tet itself (17th) there are massive celebrations as everyone celebrates their birthday on the same day – there is definitely a great buzz in the air already! In less touristy places, (according to the guide book) it is apparently quite normal to be invited to peoples houses, however there is a pecking order in how the guests are chosen with unmarried, childless ladies coming close to the bottom of the pile LOL. While in Danang where I was the only foreigner I saw, I had fabricated a husband (promoting Monty) and 2 year old child to make myself more ‘invitable’ – of course then I felt so guilty about (not the lying) leaving the child at home in England without its mother that I had to reconsider. Fortunately a new solution has arisen in the shape of 23 year old Hannah who, on two occasions yesterday, was mistaken for my daughter – gee whiz – don’t you just love sun damage! I have been having a few problems with my blog which initially I assumed to be something to do with censorship but could just as easily be to do with the website – either way please forgive syntax errors as I can’t really review the blog properly (hence the delay in reporting Dave – sorry). At present it looks as though I will actually go to Saigon (it would be a shame to come this far and not see it) on Monday if reduced travel services allow but I’m still pushing for Burma as so many people over here say it’s the highlight of their trip. Chuc Mung Nam Moi from Cat

I think I can tick the ‘interesting boarder crossing’ box. Pakse to Danang.

So I made my boarder crossing from Lao Boa in Loas to Khe Sahn (about half way up the country) in Vietnam and then onto Danang. Well I don’t really think anything could have prepared me. In the garden at Sabaidy2 guesthouse, Bernard and Atilla had reassured me that for $15 (turned out to be $18 for falang...); I could expect the bus to have deluxe sleeper facilities. The tuk-tuk driver didn’t show at the prearranged time so Mr Voun sent one of his staff to take me to the Northern bus terminal. I was dropped off at 18.45 at the one waiting bus and my driver left. I worked out quickly that it was a local bus and was told with relative certainty that it was full – there were already 80 people on the 60 seater. I joked that I could go on the roof and was told in all seriousness that there were already too many chickens there. After a few minutes of coaxing, I wasn’t getting anywhere so I headed to find a way of getting back the 6km to the guesthouse in the dark, but one of the drivers ran behind me laughing that there were now ‘seats everywhere’. Hmmmmmmm… My backpack went up with the chickens and I was put on a 5 litre paint bucket right beside the driver. As we set off, another 7 people got in the doorway so much of the journey was done with them hanging out of the bus a bit. Every time the driver changed gear, I had to move my legs and there were people sleeping on me, once I relaxed enough to let them which was an inevitability. There was also a much loved pup under my feet so I couldn’t move them without an occasional yelp and a look of concern from the owner. As we left Pakse I was able to see the ‘slash and burn’ farming, for which the Laos are criticised, and which reminded me of home as a child when the furze bushes were burned back. It looked like streams of lava in the night – at that stage of the journey I was still romanticising! LOL. There were parties on the streets of the villages that we went through, probably to mark the start of preparations for Tet, the Vietnamese New Year. We stopped a couple of times for pee breaks and arrived at the boarder at about 2am where most people had food and we waited. Some people had children that I pulled faces at and a few older ones very kindly invited me to their table. They found another older man, who used to work with the US in aviation, to speak with me for a few minutes to check I was OK. We set of again for the boarder at about 5 and by 6 the bus stopped a hundred meters or so from the boarder for the locals to buy black market currency and sim cards and to have the most wonderful 50 mls of cold dark sugary coffee which they stirred with vigour and then added ice to. The people on the bus had taken a subtle but protective interest in who I spoke to, guiding me to stay with them. I had the feeling that locals would do OK out of these financial wheelings and dealings but the foreigner would be an easy mark. I saw the locals pleasantly and discretely checking their sims etc before the deals were done. One of the men directed me towards the boarder crossing and that’s where the real circus began – me and up to a thousand other SE Asians almost breaking into a stampede to get to the window to get our passport stamps. Strangely, this is the one place where I had to part with money unexpectedly; where all the locals were charged a dollar to leave Laos I was charged $10 – I am looking forward to working that one out. The process eventually involved me (with some trepidation) passing my passport through the crowd to the window and then waiting for hours for shouts of ‘Falang?’ to know that it was ready. I had a pleasant surprise when I walked into Vietnam as the guards there were lovely (and handsome) and they didn’t take the money that I had put with the passport, which the locals pay for the stamp. In its turn, our bus was unloaded, sniffer pup was out, there were some sellers but it was pretty relaxed until I came across the one and only attempt to scam me (that I was aware of). Two people wearing the usual dust protection face masks asked me where my bus ticket was, saying with authority that I needed to show them or pay more; I couldn’t find it and had given it to the boarder guards as proof of onward travel so perhaps I hadn’t got it back(?). Any way, even through the haze of my lack of sleep, I knew I had to find the bus driver and by the time I did, they were gone. Back on the bus, we started the next leg of the journey to Hue. More people got on. I couldn’t sit down. At that point I saw that the seat I had had beside the driver was one of the best on the bus. 3 or 4 hours later we got to Hue and the bus started clearing out making several stops along the way. I was sent to the back of the bus to rest on bags of rice, (where seats had been removed) and met a lovely teacher who had a few words of English. After telling me to put my bum bag inside my clothes, he moved away to let me sleep. A little while later, the 8 or so remaining people on the bus sent me back some watermelon and it was like magic, I was awake and able to see the beautiful mountains we were to travel trough on the journey. There was an impressive tunnel. I was very tired indeed ;). We stopped at a road side café and while I was in the loo, they ordered me what they were having – fish in rice stew and tea. I was delighted but hesitated when I saw the driver take a fish head out of his. Who knew you could get so much meat out a fish head, eh? Phew, no heads in mine and it was great. We got to Danang in the dark and a moto driver offered me his services. I had hoped to get to Hoi An but it was more sensible to stay here so I struck off with him to the Modern Hotel which was recommended in the guide book – closed, next place - not there. The motor bike went over during a parking manoeuvre but no big harm done, although the rucksack went flying and I think it was here that some damage was done to the lock. I had a good look at the driver in the improved street lights and saw that he had a facial weakness…Got back on the bike, found a place to stay that was also on my list (The $14 Hotel Hoa Hong – with a bath YAHOO) and went out to explore. There are lots of celebration lights here and absolutely no farangs that I can see except me. I had a meal in a beautiful restaurant, lots of fairy lights and lamps and candles. I have found a winner in my Spring Role competition. As I paid the bill, I saw a huge rat heading for the water feature but you know what…it seemed OK. So I went for a loooooong sleep. I know this is a long blog but I have to tell someone…so if you got this far; thank you! LOL As a reward take a look at one of the beautiful things to see in 4000 Islands, Laos X

Letting go of Laos

I'm feeling very sorry for myself as tonight I have to pull myself away from Laos. The Vietnamese festival of Tet is just starting which I believe has the same consequences as New Year does at home with all the public service buildings and restaurants etc closing down. I have timed it well - I make the boarder crossing tonight across from Savannakhet. There is a weird stop (even under normal circumstances) for 7 hours in the middle. Between 12 midnight and 7am we wait in the bus with our rucksacks on our laps (in my case 20kgs), for the boarder to open. Last night, for no good reason, I slept for about an hour so Im a bit worried as even the most capable travellers advise alertness on arrival in Vietnam. So many people here are saying they went to Vietnam and then left after 3 days because of the hassles... With true tired traveller irrationality, my eyes welled up when I was served soup instead of noodles this morning... Hopefully there will some lovely people on the bus and I wont 'be alone for long'. Its all part of the adventure and I know that I will get back what I put in - Hey Ho.Cat X. PS - On the upside I have met some lovely French people who have been helping me to remember my French. PPS - Dave, the trek was in the National Park near Luang Nam Tha (the guide/manager is still missing) and your interest in the blog has always guaranteed you a T-shirt ;~)

Laid back In Laos - My Laos name is Meow

About six days ago I went on a planned tour from Mr Boons Sabaidy2 guesthouse in Pakse to the Bolaven Plateau where they claim the best coffee growing on the planet. We were taken to the tea and coffee plantations, to Waterfalls where we had the coldest swim in Laos and then we stayed overnight at Mr Tims. Here we listened to old time jazz in the much dustier but very peaceful and beautiful South Laos countryside. I also enjoyed my cheapest accommodation yet when I shared a hut for 3 with Sandrine (a young French woman who speaks with an Irish accent), Tom and Garth (so 4). It worked out at $1.25 each. I had a crazy gecko moment when a poor critter hopped onto my back and then took a stroll onto my neck...I probably don't need to describe what happened next but suffice it to say I was praying to the King of Geckos for forgiveness as I went to sleep. The next day the others went on further into the Plateau and I hung out, thinking that was as laid back as I could get. How wrong I was! There is a place, and its a strange place indeed, called The 4000 Islands. I travelled there with Iris and Janna who were also on the Bolaven tour. The weather was hot so we swam in the Mekong to cool down and wash ourselves, off Don (Island) Det. Facilities were sparse with limited electricity and pumped water (to keep the story short). The food there and the people who made it were lovely. On the first night we had a barbecue with Janice Joplin playing from the most precarious looking CD player I have ever seen. The second night we went to the Reggae bar (with Swiss Mike who speaks with an Irish accent and Mattheus who is German and speaks like a German) where Valium is served on the breakfast menu. Naturally I made do with fried garlic, chips and egg. There wasnt really a lot of movement for the 2 days that I was there. It was liberating to be so calm and so conscious that I dont need much and what I need is around me. I became an unwitting carer for a kitten (called crusty) who has been on suicide watch since birth – on separate occasions she has burned off her whiskers, burned her paws, and had to have a chicken bone and a fishing hook removed from her throat and she isnt eating and drinking or having normal maternal attention. She was showing a bit more strength yesterday and so I reluctantly put her in the care of Maria, the 3 year old child of the restaurant who I was impressed to see put her in a hammock. Poor crusty wasnt around this morning so I can only hope that she hasnt been successful in her attempts to end it all. I knew I needed to come back to Pakse to pick up my Vietnam visa (and because I was becoming too involved with the cat) and had a lovely surprise when I looked at my passport to realise that I could stay an extra 3 days...(this surprise was matched only when the flight last week with Loas Air from Luang Prabang to Pakse took off 20 minutes early). My plan at the moment is to journey up to Savannakhet where I can make the boarder crossing at Lao Bao, focus as much as I can on seeing North Vietnam and then spending a few weeks in Myanmar before I head to Thailand and then home. I feel I need to add that any mention of 'rushing' in Laos started off as a joke so anyone receiving emails from me should be advised that despite that fact that I say I am rushing, it really isn't the case but I am trying to stay out of internet cafes where my typing speed would have me chained to the computer for hours on end - which is exactly what I know you don't want me to be doing. I am meeting the loveliest people over here but there is no substitute for you guys back home and I think of you often and especially when I see beautiful things. I cant wait to force the photos on you - I just know you cant wait, at the moment I am averaging 150 per day. ;~) PS There seems to be a bug affecting apostrophies in my blog - apologies. XXX

Recovery from the trek - Paxai

The trek was wonderful but it is probably evident that it took its toll and the last days have been spent recovering. We had a great time (despite cold and rain) getting lost in the hills and my fear of heights and falling etc didn’t really hamper me too much as I had lots of support from the others who held on end of my walking stick (no joking – that’s all it took) when I occasionally felt that I was losing my balance. There was one hairy moment where our guide Mr Aah-lun pretty much lifted me up the side of a particularly slippery part (and the stick he had given me got caught in his legs and nearly toppled him to his death – but that’s another story). Suzi got a leach on her foot but she was cool as a cucumber. We stayed in an ‘eco-hut’ and had dinner with the Kamu chief, who was very unimpressed when I told him my father has five cows – he has eighty but no motorised transport. Suzi was asked to stay in the village and she has no cows in her family so I don’t know what that’s all about…The only other excitement was a middle aged German guy who let the side own a bit by having an over enthusiastic desire to photograph the local ladies with their tops off. Suzi and I had to say good-bye to Terry as we were going in opposite directions at that point but I think they might try to meet in Borneo. Meanwhile Suzi’s new boyfriend was trying to find her ‘somewhere in Laos’ and when we got back to Luang Pra Bang, they bumped into each other in an internet café. The following morning, there was a flight to Paxai which, although expensive, I believed I had earned. On arrival Paxai seems more like Cambodia that the rest of Laos that I’ve seen; the roads are wide but many aren’t paved, there are lots of shops and most of them are closed and diet coke is pretty thin on the ground as well. Saying that, they are very good at massage, the clean and basic guest house I’m in is about $3.50 and has a leafy garden and some of the best coffee in the world is grown here so I’m of to explore that by bus tomorrow. Then I’m off to the Four Thousand Islands while I wait for my Vietnam visa to come through early next week.